Colorblends Tulips

I am adicted to the beauty of the Colorblends tulips http://www.colorblends.com. I started ordering from them several years ago and they do not disappoint. My experience with the tulips (shipped directly from Holland to my door) is that they are massive the first year and average the second year. They will continue to peter out the following years and get shorter and smaller. However, this is what tulips do.

Tulips I have Ordered in the Past:
Lipsticks (Late bloomer planted in G3) $34.00/100 bulbs
Stop the Car (Early to Mid bloomer planted in G1) $30.00/100 bulbs
Gudoshnik (Mid bloomer planted in G3) $31.00/100 bulbs

Gudoshnik is my absolute favorite (pix). The blooms are huge and bowl-like. The verigated red, orange and yellow-stunning. I get many compliments on these flowers. The catalog arrived yesterday in the mail. Every year I say I am going to pass, and sometimes I do. We'll see.

Dag-On Beetles

Just when I thought the beetles were dying out, I went down to G4 to inspect what needed attention and found a "beetle brothel" on my zinnias. A few doses of spray should do the trick. Trouble is, I didn't catch it in time and 50% of the leaves have been munched. In efforts to stop the procreation, I guess I have to get really serious and document when I spray for beetles and with what.

Late beetle season 2006 (Bayer Advanced Bug Killer):
Zinnia 'Envy': Jul 26
Cherry 'Fount of Snow': Jul 26

What's Blooming: July 25, 2006

Garden 1: Echinacea, Yarrow pink, Pink Ice, Coreopsis grandiflora, Black Eyed Susan, Galardia, Penstemon

Garden 2: Crepe Myrtle 'Miami', Gladiola

Garden 3: Jupiter's Beard, Coreopsis tickseed pink, Garden phlox white, St. John's Wort, Heuchera, unid. pink matte plant

Garden 4: Heuchera, Stela d'oro, Pink Ice, Coreopsis moonbeam, Monarda purple, Garden phlox magenta, Shasta daisy, Echinacea, Gladiola white, Gladiola multicolored, Black Eyed Susan, Spider plant, Dahlia 'Apple Blossom', Verbascum 'Southern Charm'

Vegetables From the Garden

This year I have reaped the benefit of friends with vegetable gardens. GS and JP have shared some of their yields (lettuce, cucumbers and yellow squash). Today we went to family members HS & MSS's large vegetable garden in Madison and came back with a car load of potatoes (Kennebec and red), Blue Lake Bush green beans, tomatoes (red, yellow and pink), yellow squash and cucumbers.

Tonight I spent almost 2 hours snapping green beans which I will blanch and freeze tomorrow. MSS says to store the potatoes in the basement loosely if possible. They should last a long time that way.

What's Blooming: July 20, 2006

Garden 1: Echinacea, Yarrow pink, Pink Ice, Coreopsis grandiflora, Black Eyed Susan

Garden 2: -

Garden 3: Jupiter's Beard, Coreopsis tickseed pink, Garden phlox white

Garden 4: Heuchera, Stela d'oro, Pink Ice, Coreopsis moonbeam, Monarda purple, Garden phlox magenta, Garden phlox hot pink, Shasta daisy, Echinacea, Gladiola white, Gladiola multicolored, Black Eyed Susan, Spider plant, Dahlia white, Dahlia 'Purple Gem'

Annuals from Seed for 2007

I spent the weekend with a Park's Seed catalog and have decided that I want to start plants from seed for the 2007 season. I'll order my seeds in the winter. I'll also need a grow lamp and some kind of bio dome. I have tried starting from seeds before with moderate success. My goal for the 2007 season is to grow all annuals inside to save money in the spring.

2007 marks the 400th Anniversary of Jamestown. I'd like to do red and white vincas. My blue will have to come from bunting on the rail unless I have missed a drought tolerant blue low growing annual.

I will also order my red geraniums for the hanging baskets (possibly mix with white and add blue verbena).

I would like to have a very patriotic garden next summer!

Vinca Tips

Vincas are one of my favoite annuals for drought resistance and low maintenance. The flower doesn't need deadheading to keep blooming, although some gardeners shear back the plants by half in mid-summer to revitalize it.

Vincas don't do well if overwatered or overfertilized.

'Terrace' series: 16"
'Pretty In' series: early blooming, 12-14"
'Pacifica' series: early blooming, 12-14"
'Cooler' series: tolerates cool summers better than other cultivars, 6"-10" (and just as wide)
'Carpet' series: cascading low growing ground cover

About Potting Soil (Better Homes & Gardens 1999)

All potting soils consist of composted bark, compost, peat humus, sphagnum peat moss and lightening agents such as perlite or vermiculite.

All-purpose: This is the cheapest soil price-wise. It's a good soil for advanced gardeners who want to add nutrients on their own. This type has less perlite/vermiculite (p/v) thus needs more water and fertilizing. The soil may not drain well.

Premium: The higher percent of p/v gives this soil better drainage. Rood will hold onto moisture longer. Reliable all around potting mix.

Professional: Completely processed for a better texture, these soils feature a higher percentage of sphagnum peat moss, p/v and composted bark. Plants demand less regular attention than with other mixes.

Specialty: For special needs plants such as African violets, cactus and orchids, these mixes are specially formulated to suit their nutritional and water requirements.

Clematis Care (iVilliage GardenWeb)

Deadheading: Many find the seed heads to be very attractive and leave them on until they mature and drop in the fall. Keep in mind that producing both flowers and seeds requires resources and can drain the energy of the plant. Well-established and well-fed plants produce both of these with ease. However, it is probably best to deadhead young vines to help them get established faster.

Growing Root System: Above ground growth the first year is usually pathetic while most of the growth is taking place under ground. A good root system is critical for a vigorous vine. The second year will result in a larger vine, and the third year will be larger yet.

Fertilizing: Be sure to fertilize and water your clematis as they require lots of each. This will create a strong root system and a good foundation for years of beautiful blooms. Tomato fertilizer, rose food, 5-10-10, or even an Osmocote type fertilizer are good choices. Slow release fertilizers are preferred.

Transplanting: The best time of year to move an existing clematis is while the plant is dormant before the new seasons growth begins - usually in late winter as long as the ground is not frozen. At this time of year the plant's energy is stored in the root system. Prune back the top growth to about 12 to 18 inches and dig at least a 12 inch diameter root ball as deep as possible. Mature clematis roots can reach 4 feet down into the ground so the more roots you can save, the better. It is best to dig and prepare your new location before you dig up the plant to be transplanted. Dig a large hole, and dig it deeper than needed to make some room for compost or rotted manure in the bottom. You will also want to plant the clematis two to three inches deeper than the old level. One can use a post hole digger tool to get a nice deep hole. It is best to bury one or two pairs of latent buds, leaves and all, so that the plant can sprout from under the ground. It becomes a good insurance planting policy. The buried stem will develop roots.
Before you place the plant into the new hole, throw in a handful or two of bone meal or other fertilizer high in phosphate to aid in root growth. Bulbtone, an organic fertilizer, can be added to the hole without fear of burning the roots. Mix the bone meal and fertilizer with compost in the bottom of the hole, fill the hole with water, and place the new plant in it's new home, submerging it in the water. Fill in around the plant with the best compost or enriched top soil you can find, and water it in.

Heat Resistant Annuals (Pamela Crawford, SL 7/2006)

Longlasting color in hot weather:

"Dragon Wing" begonia (shade/part shade)
Sun coleus (full sun to moderate shade)
New Guinea Hybrid impatiens (full sun to partial shade)
yellow shrimp plant (Pachystachys lutea) (sun)
melampodium (full sun/light shade)
Summer Wave Hybrid trailing torenia (full sun to full shade)

Crepe Myrtle Types

I am thinking about putting a line of Crepe Myrtles on the property line to the back of the house next year. Here are the heights:

3-5 feet: Centennial and Chickasaw
5-10 feet: Acoma and Zuni
10-20 feet: Sioux, Tuskegee and Yuma
20-30 feet: Natchez, Tuscarora and Dynamite

What's Blooming: July 5, 2006

Garden 1: Echinacea, Yarrow pink, Pink Ice, Galardia, Coreopsis grandiflora, Black Eyed Susan

Garden 2: -

Garden 3: Jupiter's Beard, Platycodon, St. John's Wart, Coreopsis tickseed pink, Garden phlox white

Garden 4: Heuchera, Stela d'oro, Pink Ice, Coreopsis moonbeam, Monarda, Garden phlox light magenta, Garden phlox magenta, Garden phlox hot pink, Asiatic lily red, Shasta daisy, Echinacea, Yellow plant unknown name on right, Mullein, Gladiola white, Black Eyed Susan

Advice on June Bugs/Japanese Beetles

I called into the morning show on the Sirius Martha Stewart channel to speak to Andrew Beckman http://www.marthastewart.com/page.jhtml?type=learn-cat&id=cat20863 about the beetle issues and the chemical v. milky spore treatment.

I got some contradictory advise to what I have received in the past:
I explained to him that I ran into an extension agent who told me that there was not scientific evidence that milky spore actually works. After the explanation I asked what his take was and he stated that he recommends the milky spore route along with praying. (Why would I need to pray if it works?) When asked about granuals v. powder distribution of milky spore; he commented that he thinks the granuals give better coverage. He also states that you only have to do the milky spore treatment for one year with the granuals (although the directions on the milky spore packaging states 2 years).

So without a clear cut way to handle these creatures, here is the current plan:
August 15, 2006: put down chemicals to kill the grubs laid this year. Clear turf for 2007 gardening. (Never did this in 06)
Spring, Summer and Fall 2007: treat with milky spore granuals to kill grub eggs for 2008 gardening.

July Check List

OLD:
Continue to feed annuals 2x/week: Jul 9
Continue spraying for powdery mildew: Jul 9
Weed and cover G4 drip line: Weeded Jul 9
Fertilize clematis: DONE (Jul 10)
Cut back iris

NEW:
Kill tree of heaven: DONE (Sep 16)
Burn debris: DONE (Jul 17)
Purchase stones for G4 walkways
Kill hybiscus regrowth: DONE (Jul 7)
Backfill G4

June Bugs

Going out to garden this morning, I had to wade through the horrific sight of June Bugs. Yup, it's July! These creatures will destroy what the Japanese beetles were trying to munch on. Get out the sprayer again!

August is the time to treat these special guests of the grass and garden. I mustn't forget! I have never treated for grubs in August, but this time is a must. I am not sure of their rate of "activity" and hope they are more active during the day than evening when I really try to get some gardening done.