Aphid Control Test

I went and purchased corn oil and a spray bottle. While at Southern States for the spray bottle, a rep asked if she could help. When I told her about going natural with the aphid control. She mentioned that not all products there on their shelves were super caustic. She pointed me toward "Safer," a product that is supposed to be well...safer.

I decided to do a test. I sprayed the right half of the Rudbeckia with Safer and the left side with the home mix. The safer costs just under $7.00. The home mix is made of store brand corn oil ($1.69), dish liquid I already had (antibacterial orange scent) and water. We will see what happens.

The photo is on Day 1-pre spraying.

6/5/2006: The aphids appear to be mostly dead, still sticking to the plant, dark brown and shriveled. Each side of the plant looked the same, so it is my assumption that both products are as effective as each other. I re-sprayed the plant on 6/5 with Bayer Multi-Insect Killer since it was already on hand for the beetle spray-down (see 6/5/2006 blog on Bayer).

Aphids and Mildew and Bees, OH MY!

Can a gardener go away on vacation for a week without coming home to a whole list of things to battle? I guess not this time of year! Garden 4, of course is the garden being attacked.

Aphids are in attack mode on my favorite Rudbeckia "Irish Eyes": I will use the non-toxic oil spray route first. Mix 1 cup corn oil with 1 tablespoon liquid dishwashing detergent. Make spray by using 1 1/2 teaspoons of the oil/detergent mix with each cup of water. Coat all plant surfaces thouroughly. If necessary, repeat every 7-10 days. This also works on white flies, spider mites and other pests.

Powdery Mildew fungus is climbing its way up my phlox and lilies: I will go the natural route and use the baking soda method. Hopefully it's not too late as this does not cure what has already been covered by the mildew. Mix 1 tablespoon baking soda, 2 1/2 tablespoons ultra-fine oil spray with 1 gallon of water. Repeat every 2 weeks.

Bees are borring holes in my garage made of wood behind the garden: Geez. This one is the worst. I had no idea these little workers could do so much damage:

• Carpenter bees get their name from their ability to drill through wood and nest in the hole. Their drilling creates a near-perfect hole, approximately 1/2 inch in diameter. The hole is usually located on the underside of the wood surface; including siding, soffits, decks, overhangs, fence posts and window frames. Although the hole appears to be only an inch or two deep, it rarely ends there.
• The female carpenter bee will turn 90 degrees and bore a channel from 6 inches to as long as 4 feet. This channel serves as a main corridor from which she will drill small chambers a few inches deep. These chambers become egg holders. She will deposit an egg, bring in a mass of pollen for the newly hatched larvae to feed on, and then seal it all off to ensure it's development before she repeats the process for the next egg. The male spends most of his time flying around the nest playing guard. This is ironic as nature has left him ill prepared: he has no stinger! Only the female can sting. Simply killing the male will not solve your problem. You must treat the nest. -carpenterbees.com

June Checklist

Start feeding all annuals 2x/month: DONE
Pull out spring annuals: DONE
Trim boxwoods (rent gas trimmer): DONE
Start spraying for beetles (cherry, crepe myrtle): DONE
Sow annuals: hollyhock, heliotrope, scabiosa and zinnia-SKIPPED
Continue to support dahlias-DONE
Continue to support pea vine-DONE
Continue looking for aphids and spray with soap mixture: DONE
Spray phlox and lilies for powdery mildew every 2 weeks: DONE

End of May Checklist

New:
Support Clematis on Arbor: DONE
Support Dahlias: DONE
Support and thin pea plants: DONE
Weed garden 4: DONE
Deadhead all gardens: DONE
Purchase carpenter bee spray

Old:
Roundup on house dripline
Lime back dripline
Remove seed heads from azaleas: DONE
Fertilize azaleas with 30-10-10 Hollytone: DONE

What's Blooming: May 29, 2006

Garden 1: Yellow yarrow, Gallardia, Soapwart, Pink ice plant, Coryopsis grandiflora

Garden 2: Stela d'oro day lily

Garden 3: Geranium, Periwinkle iris, Siberian iris, Jupiter's beard, Amsonia

Garden 4: Spiderwart, Heuchera (see pix), Hot pink dianthus, Clematis, Geranium purple, Geranium pink, Maltese cross, Oriental poppy, Periwinkle iris, Rust iris

What's Blooming: May 17, 2006

Garden 1: Coryopsis grandiflora, Galardia, Soapwart

Garden 2: Periwinkle iris, Purple iris, Yellow iris, White peoney

Garden 3: Preddy Creek Road peoney, Albano Road peoney, Periwinkle iris, Amsonia, Jupiter's Beard, Siberian iris, Montpelier dianthus, Comfrey, Geranium

Garden 4: Clematis, Geranium purple, Geranium pink, Spiderwart, Periwinkle iris, Dwarf yellow iris, Oriental poppy, Rust iris

Mystery Plant = Comfrey

JP read the last post on the mystery plant and did some research. She came up with comfrey which confirms what I have heard from others. Of course I am now faced with a dilemma since comfrey is considered invasive. I think the comfrey needs to go. However, in the research I have done comfrey has wonderful medicinal purposes:

The herb contains allantoin, a cell proliferant that speeds up the natural replacement of body cells. This means that it will promote the swift healing of damaged or injured tissues, as well as maintaining cell growth and preventing diseases. Comfrey has been used to treat a wide variety of ailments ranging from bronchial problems, broken bones, sprains, arthritis, gastric and varicose ulcers, severe burns, acne and other skin conditions. It is also said to have bone and teeth building properties in children, and have value in treating 'many female disorders'. -Wikipedia

Hummingbird Feeder

Looks like I am a little late on the feeder dispersement! LT told me that Tax Day (April 15) is a good day to get the feeders out. Here it is a month later and I have my first one on the deck. She says it's ok because it's only the fathers that need the sweet water now while the eggs are still being cared for.

We get the Ruby-throated hummingbird here in Virginia named for the ruby colored neck on the bird. These hummingbirds are attracted to Bee balm, Cardinal flower, Jewelweed, Trumpet Vine, Honeysuckle and Fire pink. What they can not get from these tubular flowers they get from feeders. Mix 4 parts boiling water with 1 part sugar. Keep the food fresh for the birds. Wash feeders with hot water 2x/week.

June 28, 2006-Our male hummingbird is flying solo this year. No female or family. It is going crazy over the blooming manarda currently.

Mystery Plant

JP moved last year and gifted me a few perennials for which I wished that I had staked with nametags. I could have sworn she said that one of the plants was Virginia Bluebell. I have been told that it is not.

Blooming: Mid-May
Height: 12-16"
Flowers: Light periwinkle blue
Leaves: Silver green with fuzz and embossing
Location: Garden 3

Rumor: If left to seed it will spread wildly.

Weekend Checklist

New:
Remove baker's rack and pots from back deck: DONE
Pot up annuals for front porch: DONE
Roundup on the back dripline

Old:
Weed Garden 4: DONE
Preen & Lime Garden 4: DONE

Cannas

Another backyard favorite is the Canna Lily. I thought I would try an on-line distributor since I wanted something different. This is another flower that I can't seem to get up out of the ground to overwinter. I may not end up with any this year, but we will see.

One of the sites that came up on Google is Horn's Farm: http://www.cannas.net/. Apparently, I am really behind the eight ball and these guys are popular since they are sold out of every canna that they farm. They take orders after August 1, 2006. It might be worth checking out!

Looking at:
Orange Beauty, 6' (see pix)
Red King Humbert, 6'
Pretoria, 6'

All of the rest are 4' and under. I am not sure where I would put them.

Dahlias in Garden 4

I was surprised to see one of the dahlias I neglected to dig up last fall is coming up. I guess that's one of the only pros of having a mild winter! It's white and will be near the arbor, I bought it last year from Lowe's I believe.

The other dahlias I purchased from The Garden Spot went in tonight:
(2) Purple Gem & (2) Apple Blossom: Large flowered dahlia, deadhead for continuous blooms from July to first frost. Height 50", plant 6" deep, needs sun. Keep the soil damp at first. Planting time is from the beginning of April (after frost) to the end of May. Keep cool until planted.

What's Blooming: May 10, 2006

A list of perennials in all four gardens:
Garden 1: Soapwart, Galardia

Garden 2: Left White Peony, Periwinkle Iris, Purple Iris

Garden 3: Periwinkle Iris, Jupiter's Beard (see pix), Amsonia, Preddy Creek Peony, Albano Road Peony, Montpelier Dianthis, White Azalea, Hot Pink Azalea, Virginia Bluebell

Garden 4: Spiderwart, Periwinkle Iris, Old Fashioned Rust Iris, Coral Bells, Hot Pink Dianthis

Garden 4 Plants: Purchased for 2006

Mullein (Verbascum 'Southern Charm')-This perennial blooms in summer. Plant in full sun in well-drained soil. Grows 24-30" tall. Zones 5-9. Beautiful spires of flowers in antique colors, stunning in summer bouquets. Divide every other year to ensure longevity. Planted 5/2006.

Clematis on the Arbor

I planted Clematis on my arbor 2 years ago and thought it was a gonner when I saw it peter out the first year and was weak last year. This year all of a sudden it is revived and there are buds. I quickly replaced the other side of the arbor with what I think is the same variety thus having hopefully matching plants growing up each side.

Niobe Clematis:
Prune Hard
Blooms June-July
Height 4-6'
Zone 4-8
Flower 6-8" velvety dark red flowers with cream stamens

Clematis needs moist, well drained soil with an exposure of one half a day to a full day of sun. The plant should be mulched and kept moist, especially during the first growing season. Fertilize every four weeks during the growing season with a well balanced liquid fertilizer.

Clematis's feet like to be shaded.

Cut Flower Food

Listening to a garden talk show on Serius an advisor gave this recipe for cut flower food if you don't have any packets from the florist:

Minimum of 1 Liter water
2 drops liquid bleach
1 T. sugar

LIST: Dig Up Corms, Tubers & Rhizomes

Before winter dig up:

Freesia-after leaves have faded
Dahlia-when first frost kills back the foliage

Store in dry peat or sawdust in open cardboard container downstairs.

Flirting with Freesia

While at my favorite garden shop over the mountain, I picked up a few freesia bulbs. Had I actually read the card, I would have noticed the Zone 8 and warmer notice on the sticker. Why would they sell them out of Zone? Well, now I am stuck with them so why not try them. They will be planted in Garden 3 which is up against the house facing west. If these suckers have any chance at all in Zone 7, it will be facing west.

Double Flowering Freesia: Striped Jewel (white with pink stripe) and Pink
Height 16". Planted 14 total.

Planted 4" deep, 8" apart in between purple heucheras and between St. John's Wart and Siberian Iris 5/8/2006. I did not add fertilizer to the bottom of the hole.

Care: Plant 2-4" deep in mid-spring (should plant in April). Apply a high potash liquid fertilizer every 14 days through the growing season. Keep soil just moist at all times. Aphids may attack stems. Treat with soap. Remove spent flower stems. When foliage dies down, lift corms and store them in dry peat until it is time for replanting.

May 2007: This freesia never sprouted.

Azalea Care (from Southern Living 3/2002)

1. Top of root ball-plant a little higher than the soil.
2. Water 1x/week for first year.
3. Likes acidic soil 5.5-6.
4. Well drained soil and organic matter-raised beds are good.
5. Work in for new planting-slow release fertilizer (cottonseed meal) 1 cup/plant.
6. 2-4" mulch.
7. Like highly filtered shade.
8. Direct contact with fertilizer will burn them.
9. After flowering additional 12-5-9.
10. Prune after blooming before July 4.

May Checklist

Plant out dahlia tubers: DONE
Plant annuals (may need to guard them against cold nights): DONE
Plant patio containers and hanging baskets: DONE
Prune back spring flowering perennials: DONE
Deadhead daffodils, tulips and other spring bulbs: DONE
Remove seed heads from azaleas: DONE
Fertilize azaleas with 30-10-10 Hollytone: DONE
Support Clematis on Arbor: DONE
Start looking for aphids and spray with soap: DONE
Spray phlox and lilies for powdery mildew: DONE

Preen Schedule

Garden 1: 4/10/2006
Garden 2: 4/10/2006
Garden 3: 4/13/2006
Garden 4: 5/14/2006

Must re-apply every 9-12 weeks:
Gardens 1-3: June 12-July 3, 2006
Garden 4: July 16-August 6, 2006

Gardens 1-3: 6/25/2006
Garden 4:

Must re-apply every 9-12 weeks:
Gardens 1-3: August 27-September 17 (try earlier rather than later)

Annuals Planted

Today I put in several annuals into Gardens 1 & 3. I generally don't do annuals because they are water hogs, but they will provide color until I figure out what perenial I want to go in their place.
Garden 1:
Gomphrena "Gnome Purple": Ball shaped blooms on extra dwarf plants. Heat resistant. Good for drying. Full sun, 12" apart, grows 6" tall.

Garden 3:
Rudbekia "Toto Gold": Abundant flowers all summer. 8-15" tall, plant 10" apart.
Lantana "New Gold": One thing I know about this, if you want the yellow, you'd better buy it by Mother's Day or it sells out.

Dahlia Care

Planting: After the last frost, once soils is workable, plant tubers with eyes up. Plant 4-6 inches deep and 24 inches apart. Rich well-drained soil in full sun protected from wind is ideal. Water after plants are 6" to 12" tall.

Staking: Most dahlias need support. Before planting, drive a stake at least a foot into the ground. Tie off every foot as dahlias grow.

Fertilizing: A week before planting, mix well-rotted manure, compost or 5:10:10 fertilizer into the soil. Stay low on the nitrogen, will get foliage only.

Pruning: Deadheading is key for continuous bloom. When plant is 6" remove all but the strongest one or two stems. Pinch these back. For maximum bloom size, remove all but a few buds.

Pests: Stems shorter than 8" are subject to slugs and snails. Control heavy aphid, earwig and spider mites with insecticidal soap.

Storage: Dig up tubers right after frost blackens the foliage. Cut stems to a few inches, wash off soil. Dry tubers for a day, stems down. Place in a cardboard box and cover with slightly damp sawdust or vermiculite. Store at about 40 degrees. Inspect in January, if tubers are shriveling, mist the sawdust with water until barely damp.

Cutting: Flowers that are cut in full bloom (not buds) tend to last the longest.

Herb Uses

Bay Leaf-Fresh ones are astringent, aromatic. Use in bouquets, marinades.

Rosemary-Strong, slight camphor taste. Go too heavy and all will taste medicinal. Strip leaves, chop. Perfect match for rich flavors such as lamb, roasted potatoes.

Sage-Earthy, pungent, soft. Snip leaves off stem; chop. Great for bread stuffing. Fry in brown butter and toss with pasta.

Savory-Spicy sweet, grassy. Use in soups and with red meat and poultry.

Thyme-Subtle, earthy, versatile. Go too little and its flavor will underwhelm. Strip leaves with fingers, chop. Ideal with fish or chicken.

Oregano-Chop with a sharp chef's knife to protect the oils. Italian: adds traditional Italian flavor to beef, pasta, sauces, fish.

Tarragon-Well drained soil and sun. Assertive flavor. Licorice-like flavor pares well with steamed vegetables, chicken dishes, eggs and to punch up mustard and mayo.

Lemon Balm-Use in fresh teas, summer drinks.

Chervil-Mild flavor.

Chives: Demand regular watering because their roots grow near the surface. Flavor and texture are best raw. Sprinkle on potato salads, cheese and butter spreads and omlets.

Mint-Will take over the garden. Plant in pots. Harvest herb shortly before flowering to ensure essential oils are at their peak. Keep stems in water for 2 days. Goes well with lamb, pork, fruit salads, vegetables, chocolate or in punch.

Weekend Checklist

-Bring the mulch from the back of the shed to the driveway: DONE
-Weed and mulch Gardens 1, 2, 3: Weed-DONE
-Visit Milmont Nursery (yah!): DONE
-Plant lantana in Garden 3: DONE
-Weed Garden 4: DONE
-Plant dahlias in Garden 4: DONE
-Preen and lime Garden 4: DONE

Fighting the Grubs

I stopped at Southern States to check out the lantanas and most importantly to see if I had missed the boat on the grub control. I know if you plan to go the milky spore route that you need to apply the powder once or the granules three times a year for two years anytime the ground is not frozen. When I was consulting with the grub control product woman, I was convinced that I was going to come back with Miagi (my pickup) and pick up 6 bags of Grub Control at 29.99 each (yeah! and this was on sale from 39.99!). I would have to do this three times this year. Seeing what I have seen so far of the grubs, it was well worth the money if it worked!

Well, going out of the store, a man stopped me and introduced himself and gave me his card. He said he couldn't help overhearing my issues and wanted to offer some advise. He was none other than a Virginia Cooperative Extension Expert! He told me that there is no proof that the milky spore (while safe and organic) worked. If I wasn't willing to go chemical, then there was no guarantee that milky spore would do the job.

This puts me between a rock and a hard place. I really did want to go organic, but seriously, I need proven results. The beetles are too much to bare.

Application of the chemical grub control should be in August when the grubs are eggs and near the surface of the soil.

Peter L. Warren
Extension Agent, Agriculture and Natural Resources
Horticulture
Master Gardener Coordinator
460 Stagecoach Road, Charlottesville, Virginia 22902
434-872-4580
peter@vt.edu

Dahlia Notes

I love dahlias. They might as well be the summer version of peonies for me. I have never successfully overwintered them, but this year I am determined. I bought a few today from the local nursery, "The Garden Spot." A woman who I presumed to be part owner gave me a few great tips:

*Plant the dahlia and when shoots start coming up, cut all but one. This will provide a thick, tough main trunk and larger blooms.

*When dividing the dahlia in the fall, you always have to keep part of the main stalk on each division. She has dipped each tuber in wax to overwinter and keep fresh. If I don't want to do all of that, and open box of peat/sawdust will suffice in a nice cool dry place.

The Peony Report

I haven't paid for a peony yet and I don't intend to, dang it! The thing is, I have had to wait for 3 years for my first one to bloom. JP and I went on a midnight raid to a location that was clearly neglecting their massive peony on the corner of two streets near by. We were each able to get one, with maybe 2 eyes each and for the first 2 years it was touch and go. I nursed my curbside peony to its first bloom this year. There are five flowers that I will look forward to seeing. The ants are busy sucking the sweet nectar now which tells me all is right with the flower. I can't wait to see it.

Albano Road Peony: Garden 3/side. White. Started blooming May 1.
Forest Trail Peony: Garden 4. Looks like no blooms this year, all foliage, about 3' tall.
Fishersville Peony: Garden 2. Will bloom within next few weeks.
Preddy Creek Peony: Garden 3/side. Fuchia. Will bloom within the week.

Herbs This Season

Working on the herb garden on my back deck tonight. I decided to forego the little pots that loose their moisture so fast and go with a very large container with eveything planted together. I am hoping the herbs last longer this year that way. I like to have the herbs near my kitchen for fast flavor.

In the pot (which receives morning sun)-
Chives (alliumm schoenoprasum)
Purple Sage (Salvia officinalis)
Peppermint (Mentha x piperita)
Kentucky Colonel Mint (for tea, jelly, sauces or juleps!)
Sweet Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
Basil (Nufar Hybrid of Ocimum basilicum)
Summer Savory (Satureja Hortensis)

Herbs to be planted in Garden 3 near the front door (harsh afternoon sun)-
Lemon Balm (Melissa officinalis)
Rosemary (Hill Hardy)
Italian Oregano (this will be next to Greek Oregano that overwintered)

Crinkly Lambs Ear

One of my patches of Lamb's Ear is looking pretty nasty in Garden 3. What is usually lush silvery green foliage is wavy and crimped looking. Typical issues for "Stachys" are rust, leaf spot and powdery mildew. This doesn't look like any of those. The plant is not thriving as it was in other years and in other beds. It all comes from the same original plant which makes it so random. It can't be water logged, because it's in a raised bed. It just doesn't look right.

(I ripped this out 5/6/2006. I believe it was some kind of rot.)

Garden 4

I have got to get the back garden in shape. There are intruders. Since my spring clean sweep I have been gone or concentrating on the front 3. I know, not fair to the back garden. Anyway, there is this green stringy grass-like growth* on the left side. I believe it looks like threadleaf coryopsis. I don't remember planting any in the back garden. I know it spreads like crazy. I hope I am not doomed. Also, the garden phlox are on crack, spreading like crazy. It's funny because I have three other types of phlox that don't grow in that mannor. I need to figure out which type spreads so much. Note to self: put plant labels on everything!

*5/14/2006-This ended up being some kind of native grass. I did my best to dig it up, but it was so young, I could not get it all. I churned up the grass pretty well into the soil.

What's Blooming: May 2, 2006

Garden 1: Soapwart (see pix)
Garden 2: Iris-periwinkle, purple traditional and yellow
Garden 3: Virginia Bluebell, Azalea, periwinkle Iris, Jupiter's Beard, Amsonia, Harlowedge Peony, Montpelier Dianthis
Garden 4: Nothing

Iris Log

Three different types of Iris in the garden...all blooming at the same time. Amazing-the stars are in alignment. How the heck do I get rid of those nasty little aphids though? I know they don't do THAT much damage, but still, they disturb me. My neighbor just brushes them off with her hands. That looks easy and not skeevy, but I am sure they just jump right back on. I don't want to use anything harsh on them. I am thinking of sharing the light periwinkle ones with my workmate. They can use some division this summer. I also have to dig all of them up regardless and raise them. They have sunken down after two years of side dressing with compost.